Miami Guide for the Returning Miamian

The best, coolest, most awesome things to do, eat, and see in Miami right now. Yes, right now.

You should definitely check out a South Beach sunset.

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I moved to Miami in third grade and hated it. I missed my old friends and the snow. But over the years, like those mushrooms in The Last of Us, it grew on me — and took over my entire being.

When my partner and I moved away seven years ago, we still wanted our young son to be as enchanted by the Magic City as we are. That’s why we go ALL OUT when we visit. And by that, I mean we force our child to do a ton of kid-friendly stuff and see all of our friends until he’s in a terrible mood and naps hard in the car and then stays up snacking until midnight.

Miami often undergoes turnarounds as dramatic as Jenna Lyons’ career, so if you’re a returning Miamian, you may need assistance navigating your former city.

Traffic has gotten worse since you left, and the driving, if you can imagine, is more dangerous than ever. That’s why this list is largely neighborhood-specific, so you can be more targeted about your excursions.

I cannot promise a full list of all of the many amazing places to eat and play in a city where people come from all over the world to eat and play. So, feel free to ask questions or add your own suggestions in the comments!

Looking for the “real Miami.”

There’s No Place Like Home

I think it’s fun to prioritize visiting your old haunts, or more specifically, haunted places you grew up enjoying. My main takeaway from this list is: Crank up the nostalgia on your next visit.

Coral Gables and South Miami
Despite the trek from Hollywood, where we now stay, we usually make a visit to the neighborhood where I grew up by the University of Miami. We visit friends and wave at my beloved cat Tito’s grave in the backyard of our former home. It’s always rewarding, a little sad, and worth the effort.

Last year, we swung by the beautifully revamped Fox’s Lounge in South Miami where I spent many evenings chatting with the old salty dog regulars and playing Patsy Cline on the juke. We also gorged on doughnuts at the delectable The Salty Donut next door. If you go to Fox’s, leave the kids at home and bring them home doughnuts. The new Fox’s isn't as kid-friendly as the old one. They don’t let children sit at a bar anymore. Go figure!

This, however, was the first year we really explored “the city beautiful,” aka Coral Gables. Now you may not have grown up in Coral Gables, but you can tell your kids you did — just kidding. No, but really, you do you.

The Coral Gables Library is an architectural gem constructed with coral rocks and the purest cozy rainy day vibes. Recent renovations left all of its charm but jazzed up the kids section where I spent endless hours of my youth. Additionally, there are banyan trees perfect for climbing outside. Everyone likes to climb banyan trees.

Next trip, we’ll probably hit up the Venetian Pool, Vizcaya Museum and Gardens, and maybe head south to Coral Castle to round out the full coral rock experience.

I like to pretend I’m fancy.

To gain access to the also impressive Biltmore Hotel, we bought pastries in its basement bakery then snuck up to see the lobby birds in their extravagant cages and the pool, which I have swam as a kid in despite never being a guest there (Sorry, Mr/s/x. Biltmore).

Books and Books is an obligatory stop on South Florida visits. We went to the original in the Gables and overspent, as usual. We snagged a gorgeous book The Highwaymen on the Black artists who captured Florida landscapes from the 1950s-’70s. A word of warning: look at the price tags on the Jellycat plushies before you agree to purchase one and then have to live with it forever.

This expensive bastard now lives with us.

Hialeah
My partner spent some of his formative years in the Hialeah-Miami Lakes area. So I planned a Hialeah day. Once we made it out to Hialeah, it turns out he actually lived closer to Miami Lakes! Still, we made the most of it.

We had lunch at Stephen’s Delicatessen, now owned and run by Kush. This Hialeah-meets-Mel Brooks restaurant is filled with so many incredible photo ops. Like the bathroom the has astrological legend Walter Mercado on the walls (see below). Visiting any Kush location for a burger and fries is probably a good idea.

Mucho, mucho amor. (Don’t miss this film on Walter Mercado.)

I also suggest a trip to Flamingo Plaza. It’s a Hialeah strip mall with both thrift and non-thrift stores. I’ve been going since I was wearing child sizes. You have to know how to dig, but you can refresh your wardrobe very, very affordably. We left with two huge bags, and even with splurging on a dress for $30, we spent less than $100. Be warned, it’s cash only, but there’s an ATM onsite.

Little Havana and Coconut Grove
Little Havana is now a restaurant hot spot. I hear good things about Cafe La Trova and Sanguich De Miami. Azucar for ice cream and Ball and Chain for live music are, together, a lovely Miami night out. If Coconut Grove was your corner of the world, don’t forget the weekly Saturday farmer’s market with its perfect fruit pies and the Bahamian Goombay Festival with its fresh conch salads, if you’re around in June. To explore the culinary treasures of the Grove, try this list.

Miami Beach
I know it’s a pain to drive out there if you’re not staying there, but don’t forget Miami Beach. It’s a cornucopia of entertainment. We went to the brand new Nike store on Lincoln Road, and that alone was an adventure.

I suggest the Italian bakery Rosetta off Lincoln because the treats are divine. You can take your croissant and head to the Frank Gehry-designed New World Center where the symphony plays and the gorgeously remodeled Bass museum for another treat at its new yummy cafe. I think Juvia for food with a view on Lincoln Road is a whole thing you can plan for.

If you’re further down on the beach, head to the well-stocked gift shop at the Wolfsonian museum and grab a bite at Le Sandwicherie. I think there are a million new places to dine down there, but try to make it to the drag bunch at Sweet Liberty hosted by Karla Croqueta on the first Sunday of the month.

I also suggest forcing your family to walk all the way down Lincoln Road to see the sunset from the sand. My two were so very cranky about it, but once we got there, they appreciated the effort. The Miami skies were dressed to impress!

A Real Piece of (Art)Work

I personally love going to museums and art galleries. Miami has plenty to explore.

If you have kids and some money to throw around, visit the Phillip and Patricia Frost Science Museum. You may remember the planetarium at the old science museum from a school field trip or the Laser Floyd show you saw while stoned in college. It’s now housed in a beautiful compound on Biscayne Bay.

If your kid is acting wiggly and weird, just go straight up to the fourth floor and let them touch the stingrays, see the native birds and fish, and play in that awesome augmented reality Everglades room since, if you’re like us, you probably still haven't brought your kids to the actual Everglades. Though now that I know about this new Flamingo Adventures hotel, we may actually brave the massive mosquitoes.

From there, you don’t have to move your car to explore Perez Art Museum Miami (PAMM). PAMM has managed to balance art that is respectable, relevant, and accessible. The exhibits and works on display aren’t simple, but they’re not overwrought. I really feel like it’s hit its stride. Also, I worked there, so I’m biased.

Splurge on coffee or lunch at its restaurant, Verde, so you can sit on Biscayne Bay and enjoy the sea breeze and maybe see a few dolphins. You’ll feel like you’re properly on vacation in your hometown.

My child hated Yayoi Kusama’s Love Is Calling at PAMM, but I was feeling it!

As far as galleries, I highly recommend starting at the Little Haiti Cultural Complex for some wonderful Caribbean art and energy and then heading to nearby Emerson Dorsch, a backbone of the Miami art scene. You can grab a coffee next door at Panther Coffee — which you probably know about unless you’ve been gone for like 15 years.

You should also see Locust Projects, de la Cruz Collection, Bakehouse Art Complex, Oolite Arts — the list goes on. I actually have a spreadsheet. Make a special trip to the Rubell Museum in Allapattah, which also has an upscale restaurant inside. I hear there are new galleries opening in that area. Check on times and days before you head out.

As far as museums go, don’t forget ICA Miami, MOCA, HistoryMiami Museum, Miami Children’s Museum, or the Frost Museum of Art. HistoryMiami has a chupacabra exhibit that I’m bummed we missed.

Little River has been coming up as a cultural center. Eat outside at Rosie’s; don’t miss the brick and mortar Dale Zine store for a very cool book- and zine-buying experience; and check out the Little River Flea Market.

This meal was the schnitz.

After the Sun Sets

There was a time when I was “in the know,” but now, once the sun sets, all I know is my couch, Sleepytime tea, and Midsomer Murders.

Partying in Miami is more personal than the daytime shenanigans, so I have little advice. We always try to make it to Gramps in Wynwood, especially for Let’s Sang karaoke on Mondays or the gayer nights of Double Stubble and Gender Blender. I hear good things about Dante’s HiFi in Wynwood. 27 restaurant and the Broken Shaker are always nice for that old South Beach energy, a la Soul Garden (for seasoned Miamians).

Record stores are in good supply now, too. Don’t miss pairing classic hotspot Sweat Records with nearby Fiorito for delicious Argentine chow. You can match up the well-curated Technique Records with the New Schnitzel House (meal pictured above) on the 79th Street Causeway for good vibes and, my fave, German food. If you brave Wynwood, you can grab some vinyl and food at Lucky Records.

And that’s all I’ve got for you. If you have more specific questions, hit me up in the comments!

Related: I wrote a list for Miami New Times on the best rainy day activities in Miami.

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